Microdermabrasion vs Dermaplaning — Which Is Right for You?

Last updated: 5 March 2026

When it comes to professional exfoliation treatments, microdermabrasion and dermaplaning are two of the most popular options available at aesthetic clinics across the UK. Both promise smoother, brighter skin — but they work in fundamentally different ways and suit different skin types and concerns. Understanding the distinctions between these treatments is essential for making an informed decision about your skincare journey.

What Is Microdermabrasion?

Microdermabrasion is a non-invasive exfoliation technique that uses a device to spray fine crystals (aluminium oxide or sodium bicarbonate) or a diamond-tipped handpiece across the skin’s surface. The device simultaneously vacuums away the dead skin cells and crystals, providing a deep mechanical exfoliation that stimulates cell turnover.

According to a 2019 systematic review published in the Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, microdermabrasion has been shown to improve skin texture, reduce the appearance of fine lines, and enhance the penetration of topical skincare products by up to 50%.

“Microdermabrasion remains one of the most versatile and well-tolerated skin resurfacing treatments we offer,” explains Dr Sarah Thornton, consultant dermatologist with over 15 years of clinical experience. “It’s particularly effective for patients with dull, congested skin or early signs of photoageing.”

What Is Dermaplaning?

Dermaplaning involves using a sterile surgical scalpel (typically a No. 10 blade) held at a 45-degree angle to gently scrape away the outermost layer of dead skin cells along with fine vellus hair (commonly known as peach fuzz). This manual exfoliation technique requires significant practitioner skill and training.

Research published in Dermatologic Surgery confirms that dermaplaning effectively removes approximately 2-3 weeks’ worth of dead skin buildup in a single session, creating an immediately smoother canvas for skincare products and makeup application.

Key Differences Between the Two Treatments

Mechanism of Action

Microdermabrasion uses suction combined with abrasive particles or a diamond tip to remove dead cells. Dermaplaning relies solely on the precise blade technique of a trained practitioner. The suction element of microdermabrasion provides additional benefits by stimulating blood flow and lymphatic drainage.

Depth of Exfoliation

Microdermabrasion can reach slightly deeper into the epidermis, particularly with multiple passes or higher suction settings. Dermaplaning provides a more uniform, superficial exfoliation across the entire treatment area. Both treatments work exclusively within the epidermis and do not penetrate the dermis.

Hair Removal

One significant advantage of dermaplaning is that it removes vellus hair alongside dead skin cells. Microdermabrasion does not address facial hair. For patients bothered by peach fuzz — particularly when it affects makeup application — dermaplaning offers a dual benefit.

Suitability for Skin Types

• Sensitive skin: Dermaplaning is generally better tolerated, as it does not involve suction or abrasive particles
• Oily/acne-prone skin: Microdermabrasion may be preferable, as the suction helps clear congested pores
• Active acne: Neither treatment is recommended during active breakouts
• Rosacea: Dermaplaning is typically the safer choice, as suction can exacerbate redness
• Darker skin tones: Both treatments carry low risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation when performed correctly

What to Expect During Each Treatment

Microdermabrasion Session

A typical session lasts 30-45 minutes. The practitioner will cleanse your skin before passing the handpiece across the treatment area in systematic strokes. You may feel a mild scratching sensation and gentle suction. Post-treatment, a soothing serum and SPF are applied.

Dermaplaning Session

Dermaplaning sessions usually take 20-30 minutes. After thorough cleansing, the practitioner holds the skin taut and uses short, feathery strokes with the scalpel blade. The treatment is painless — you will feel a light scraping sensation. A hydrating serum and sun protection are applied afterwards.

Recovery and Aftercare

Both treatments require minimal downtime. With microdermabrasion, you may experience mild redness and sensitivity for 24-48 hours. Dermaplaning typically causes less redness, with most patients able to apply makeup immediately.

Essential aftercare for both treatments includes:

• Applying broad-spectrum SPF 30+ daily for at least two weeks
• Avoiding direct sun exposure for 48-72 hours
• Using gentle, fragrance-free skincare products for 48 hours
• Avoiding active ingredients (retinol, AHAs, BHAs) for 3-5 days
• Keeping skin well-hydrated with a barrier-supporting moisturiser

How Often Should You Have Each Treatment?

Microdermabrasion is typically recommended every 2-4 weeks for a course of 4-6 sessions, followed by monthly maintenance. Dermaplaning can be performed every 3-4 weeks, aligned with the skin’s natural cell turnover cycle.

Cost Comparison

In the UK, microdermabrasion sessions typically range from £60-£150, depending on the clinic and technology used. Dermaplaning tends to be slightly less expensive, averaging £50-£120 per session. Many clinics offer package deals for courses of treatment.

Frequently Asked Questions

Will my facial hair grow back thicker after dermaplaning?

No, this is a common myth. Dermaplaning cuts vellus hair at the surface — it does not alter the hair follicle. The hair will grow back at the same rate, thickness, and colour.

Can I combine microdermabrasion or dermaplaning with other treatments?

Yes, both treatments pair well with chemical peels, LED light therapy, and hydrating facials. Many clinics offer combination protocols for enhanced results.

Are these treatments safe during pregnancy?

Dermaplaning is generally considered safe during pregnancy as it involves no chemicals or suction. Microdermabrasion is also typically safe, though some practitioners prefer to avoid it during the first trimester.

How soon will I see results?

Both treatments provide immediately visible results — smoother texture, improved radiance, and a more even skin tone. Cumulative benefits typically become apparent after 3-4 sessions.