Hydrodermabrasion vs Microdermabrasion — A Detailed Comparison

Last updated: 5 March 2026

Both hydrodermabrasion and microdermabrasion are popular skin resurfacing treatments that improve skin texture, clarity, and radiance. While they share the goal of exfoliation and skin renewal, they achieve this through fundamentally different mechanisms and are suited to different skin types and concerns. At Axiom Aesthetics, we offer both modalities and help patients choose the right treatment based on their individual needs.

Understanding Microdermabrasion

What Is Microdermabrasion?

Microdermabrasion is a mechanical exfoliation treatment that has been a staple of aesthetic clinics since the 1990s. It works by physically abrading the outermost layer of skin (the stratum corneum) using either crystal particles or a diamond-tipped handpiece, combined with suction to remove the loosened debris.

Types of Microdermabrasion

• Crystal microdermabrasion: Fine aluminium oxide or sodium bicarbonate crystals are propelled against the skin at high velocity, then vacuumed away along with exfoliated skin cells. This was the original form of the treatment
• Diamond-tip microdermabrasion: A handpiece with a diamond-encrusted tip is moved across the skin surface while simultaneous suction removes debris. This offers more controlled, consistent abrasion and avoids the potential irritation of loose crystal particles

How Microdermabrasion Works

The mechanical abrasion removes the dead cells of the stratum corneum, triggering an accelerated cell renewal response. The suction component increases blood circulation and stimulates a mild collagen-remodelling response. Together, these effects produce smoother, brighter skin with improved product absorption.

What Microdermabrasion Treats

• Dull, lacklustre skin
• Mild sun damage and superficial pigmentation
• Superficial fine lines
• Minor textural irregularities
• Superficial acne scarring
• Rough, dry skin patches

Understanding Hydrodermabrasion

What Is Hydrodermabrasion?

Hydrodermabrasion (sometimes called “hydrafacial” or “aqua facial” after popular brand names) represents the next generation of dermal abrasion technology. Instead of mechanically scraping the skin surface, hydrodermabrasion uses a vortex of water and active solutions to simultaneously exfoliate, cleanse, extract, and hydrate the skin.

How Hydrodermabrasion Works

The treatment uses a specialised handpiece that creates a vortex suction effect. This vortex accomplishes several functions simultaneously:

• Exfoliation: The water stream and suction remove dead skin cells from the surface
• Deep cleansing: The vortex suction extracts debris from within pores — oil, blackheads, and impurities
• Active ingredient delivery: Treatment serums (containing acids, peptides, antioxidants, or hyaluronic acid) are infused into the skin during the exfoliation process
• Hydration: The water-based approach inherently hydrates the skin, unlike the drying effect of mechanical abrasion

The Multi-Step Hydrodermabrasion Process

A typical hydrodermabrasion treatment follows a structured protocol:

1. Cleanse and exfoliate: A mild acid solution (typically glycolic or salicylic) combined with water loosens dead cells and surface debris
2. Acid peel (optional): A gentle chemical peel may be applied for additional exfoliation, tailored to the skin type
3. Extraction: The vortex suction deeply cleanses pores, removing blackheads and congestion painlessly
4. Serum infusion: Active serums are infused into the freshly exfoliated skin for enhanced absorption — common options include hyaluronic acid, peptides, antioxidant cocktails, and growth factors
5. Protection: SPF and protective moisturiser applied

What Hydrodermabrasion Treats

• Dehydrated, dull skin
• Congested pores and blackheads
• Oily and combination skin
• Mild hyperpigmentation
• Fine lines and early ageing
• Sensitive skin (gentler than microdermabrasion)
• Rosacea-prone skin (with appropriate settings)
• Pre-event “glow” treatments

Head-to-Head Comparison

Feature	Microdermabrasion	Hydrodermabrasion
Mechanism	Mechanical abrasion	Water vortex + active serums
Exfoliation type	Physical	Physical + chemical (hybrid)
Hydration effect	Can be drying	Actively hydrating
Pore extraction	Limited (suction only)	Excellent (vortex extraction)
Active ingredient delivery	Post-treatment only	During treatment (enhanced absorption)
Suitable for sensitive skin	Not ideal	Yes (with appropriate settings)
Suitable for oily/acne skin	Moderate	Excellent
Suitable for dry skin	With caution	Excellent
Rosacea-safe	Generally not recommended	Can be adapted
Discomfort level	Mild scratching sensation	Minimal (often described as pleasant)
Redness post-treatment	1-24 hours	0-2 hours
Downtime	Minimal (1 day)	None
Treatment time	20-30 minutes	30-45 minutes
Results per session	Moderate	Immediately visible
Price range	£60-£120	£100-£200

Which Treatment Is Right for You?

Choose Microdermabrasion If:

• You have thick, resilient skin that tolerates physical exfoliation well
• Your primary concern is rough texture or superficial scarring
• You prefer a more affordable option
• You are seeking intensive surface exfoliation
• Your skin is not particularly sensitive or dry

Choose Hydrodermabrasion If:

• You have sensitive, reactive, or rosacea-prone skin
• Dehydration is a significant concern
• You want deep pore cleansing alongside exfoliation
• You prefer zero-downtime treatments
• You want active ingredients infused during the treatment
• You are preparing for a special event and need immediate results
• You have combination or oily skin with congestion

Maximising Results from Both Treatments

Treatment Frequency

• Microdermabrasion: Every 2-4 weeks for a course of 4-6 sessions; then monthly maintenance
• Hydrodermabrasion: Every 2-4 weeks for ongoing maintenance; can be done more frequently (every 2 weeks) for initial concerns

Complementary Treatments

Both treatments pair well with other modalities:

• LED light therapy: Immediately after either treatment for enhanced healing and collagen stimulation
• Chemical peels: Alternated on different weeks for comprehensive exfoliation
• Microneedling: Performed on separate weeks for deeper collagen stimulation
• Injectable treatments: Both treatments improve product absorption and skin quality, supporting better filler and biostimulator results

Homecare Between Sessions

• Use a gentle cleanser (avoid scrubs and harsh exfoliants for 48 hours post-treatment)
• Apply hydrating serum (hyaluronic acid)
• Moisturise with a barrier-supportive product
• SPF 30-50 daily (non-negotiable)
• Avoid retinoids for 24-48 hours post-treatment

The Future of Dermabrasion Technology

The aesthetic industry continues to innovate in this space. Recent developments include:

• Hydrogen-infused hydrodermabrasion: Incorporating molecular hydrogen for enhanced antioxidant effects
• AI-guided dermabrasion: Smart devices that adjust parameters based on real-time skin analysis
• Stem cell serum infusion: Using advanced biologics during hydrodermabrasion for regenerative effects
• Combination devices: Platforms that combine hydrodermabrasion with RF, LED, and ultrasound in a single session

At Axiom Aesthetics, we continuously evaluate new technologies to ensure our patients have access to the most effective treatments available.

Frequently Asked Questions

Are these treatments painful?

Neither treatment should be painful. Microdermabrasion produces a mild scratching or sandpaper-like sensation and a pulling feeling from the suction — most patients find it perfectly tolerable. Hydrodermabrasion is even more comfortable, often described as a cool, wet sensation against the skin. Many patients find it relaxing. If either treatment causes significant pain, inform your practitioner immediately as the settings may need adjustment.

Can I wear makeup after treatment?

After hydrodermabrasion, you can apply mineral makeup within a few hours if needed, though we recommend letting your skin breathe for the rest of the day to maximise the benefits of the infused serums. After microdermabrasion, we recommend waiting 24 hours before applying full coverage makeup to allow the skin to settle. In both cases, ensure makeup brushes and sponges are clean to avoid introducing bacteria to freshly treated skin.

How do these compare to a chemical peel?

Chemical peels and dermabrasion treatments work through different mechanisms. Peels use acid solutions to dissolve the bonds between dead skin cells, causing controlled shedding. Dermabrasion physically removes cells through mechanical or hydro action. Peels can penetrate deeper into the skin and produce more dramatic results, but with proportionally more downtime. For surface-level texture improvement and regular maintenance, dermabrasion treatments are excellent; for more significant concerns like moderate pigmentation or acne scarring, chemical peels may be more appropriate. Many patients benefit from alternating between the two.

Are these treatments suitable for all ages?

Both treatments are suitable for adults of all ages. Younger patients (late teens and twenties) often benefit from hydrodermabrasion for pore management and skin clarity. Middle-aged patients appreciate both treatments for texture improvement and anti-ageing benefits. Older patients may prefer hydrodermabrasion for its gentler approach and hydrating properties. The specific treatment parameters (suction strength, abrasion intensity, serum selection) are adjusted based on age-related skin changes and individual needs.

How much do these treatments cost at Axiom Aesthetics?

Individual microdermabrasion sessions start from approximately £80-£120, while hydrodermabrasion sessions range from £120-£200, depending on the serums used and any additional enhancements (LED, mask). Course packages offer savings of 15-20%. Both treatments are available as part of our monthly treatment plans, which provide the best value for patients committed to ongoing skin maintenance. Contact us for current pricing and package options.